MEET COACH SJONG
WHO IS THE CLIMBING SENSEI?
Pushing the boundaries of the sport.
Justen has been climbing since 1992. From 2004 onward, he has left his mark on elite climbing objectives across the country. In 2008, he established the “hardest free big wall” in the world, Magic Mushroom (5.14a VI) on El Cap in Yosemite. This 28-pitch epic project took him and partner Tommy Caldwell 5 long days on the wall to complete. Justen also established his dream climb, The Pre-Muir (5.13d), on El Cap, in 2007.
In a post-send interview with Rock and Ice, he reported that “by the time you reach the 5.13d crux at pitch 25, you have done eight 5.12 pitches and three 5.13 pitches down low in the ‘easy’ section. The second-to-last pitch is 5.13c. There are 10 five-star high-quality pitches on the route.”
Not just an athlete.
Helping others realize their true potential
Justen is also an accomplished coach. He has been coaching climbers since 1994, and in that time he has helped people of all abilities push their limits. He specializes in evaluating climbing movement and provides drills to improve an athlete’s weaknesses. With a balance of intensity and light-heartedness, he explains complex ideas in a simple, logical manner so that his clients understand the long-term direction and goals.
Justen has had the honor of coaching some of the best climbers in the world, including Alex Puccio, Daniel Woods & Emily Harrington since they were little crushers.
THIS ISN'T YOUR AVERAGE TRAINING PROGRAM
Coach Sjong’s approach to performance is unlike anything else.
What are athletes saying about Justen?
Coach Sjong in the news.
Recognized by climbing publications from around the world.
Click the articles to read more.
Climbing Magazine – “The Sensei”
Gripped Magazine – “100 Years of Big Wall Free Climbing”
EpicTV – “If You Want To Climb Your Best You Have To Train With The Best”
Alpinist Magazine – “More Details on Magic Mushroom”
Outside Magazine – “Psychedelic First”
Rock and Ice Magazine – “Mary Harlan: Heartiness, Suffering and The Zion Link-Up”
Climbing Magazine – “Climb A Grade Harder”
TrainingBeta – “Training With Justen Sjong”
National Geographic – “Is Half Dome Too Dangerous?”
Climbing Business Journal – “Justen Sjong Keeps The Beat”
ClimbingNarc – “Training Tips from Justen Sjong”
EveningSends – “Training with Justen Sjong”
Climbing Magazine - "5 Ways to Train Smarter in the Gym to Climb Harder Outdoors"
Triple Black TV - "On the Art of Training"
REI Co-Op Journal - "The Climbing Sensei"
Kelttern (German) - "Justen Sjong, Climbing Sensei"
Power Company - "Ego, Partnership and awareness"
No Time to Train: How Paige Sent Her Proj With Only 1 Hour Per Day
Podcast: Panel Discussion on Training
Justen Sjong: How to Read a Route, Part 1
Interview: Coach Justen Sjong on Weight Training
Interview: Coach Justen "The Sensei" Sjong on His Training Philosophy
